Mike making the move round the roof in Franklin, WV. It was cold.
Check it. Three friends spent the summer establishing new big wall routes in Karavshin in Kyrgyzstan. All three are awesome and their trip report is equal parts inspiring and hilarious. And if you are a UKC’er give them lots of votes. If not, sign up, and give them lots of votes. They are awesome. Good use of Irvine Fund money. Well done OUMC boys.
Both pics copy right of Ian Faulkner and posted on UKC.
An afternoon day in the woods.
(me absailing The Fiamma)
So, havn’t had tons of climbing adventures of late. This is mainly a product of time/money/weather, or rather their effect on my priorities and/or psych. Hopefully I will get a long weekend in the Carolinas later this summer, but who knows. Where I will not be going, sadly, is either the Alps, the Lakes, Snowdonia, Cornwall, Pembroke, or the Peak. Given I will not be back climbing on that side of the pond for who knows how long, I decided to do a round up of longer posts about my climbing ‘over there’
Ah…Arco. Would be nice to be there this summer, but slowly accepting that I will not go to the mountains this year. Alas. I think I like this b/c it captures why the Alps are great: climbing+weather+food/drink (note the terraced vineyard). Ruppe Secca Sud isn’t even a great crag, much less a mountain, but nevertheless, it’s the alps.
A brilliant write up from UKClimbing.com of an all-time classic: The Nordkante! So glad I ticked it this summer. You can read about my experiance here. Btw, it’s barely 5.7 (VDiff-ish) but its a full 1km or 3k feet long! Hawt dizamn that’s a lot of rock!
A promised climbing tale. This was once published for real in the Oxford University Journal of Mountaineering…aka by my mates…and for at least one Anglesey aficionado follower…you know who you are, no need to call you out (the horror! the horror!) but I imagine your Anglesey adventures are MUCH saner than this.
It was raining in Wales again and there were two options: point the car towards Anglesey and hope for the best, or literally shovel shit all day. Peter Hill’s friends had graciously opened their barn to Chris Bull, Rob King, and myself for a long weekend in Snowdonia, and if we didn’t go climbing, well, there was a barn full of cow shit that needed “‘tendin’to” as we would say where I am from. Being from a small horse farm in Kentucky, I have shoveled my fair share of shit, and its about as bad as it sounds. So we packed up and headed to the island. The rest of the crew was keen for Gogarth. I was not. Had we gone there I am sure we would have still been shoveling shit. Mine. Thus we settled on Holyhead Mountain. While not actually raining when we pulled into a abandoned parking lot, the fog was as “thick as split-pea soup.”
In honor of the Obed, the summer, and the south. Y-12. Greatest summer crag on earth.
The Obed, by Kelly Brown with Photography from Mark Large
Just picked this up from RSO in Knoxville and it’s a gem. As well as providing all the beta one needs for a fun trip, Kelly and Mark capture what makes the Obed special- its combination of climbing and characters. Buy the book. It’s worth it, and go to the Obed, it’s more worth it.
Sample pages can be found here
The leap between Adam and Eve atop Tryfan in North Wales is a long standing tradition. After completeing Pinnacle Rib, Jamie and I roused our courage for the leap. This is also the last time I saw the sun in North Wales. That was Feburary of 2007.
Winter Bouldering Wrap Up- Bouldering season isn’t near over but winter bouldering, proper cold weather snow and sunsine so crisp your digits my snap off cold bouldering is probably behind us. Here are some cold memories from Jan/Feb in the Peak
Ah, summer in the Alps. Top of the last pitch of Punta d’Albigna. I have now done all three major routes on the Punta and can safely say it that Mueli is the best, followed by Modern Times and finally Steiger and that all three should be topped off with the NW Ridge. Moreover it is a great first mountain as the routes are well protected and easy, the descent is not hard, and there is a midway bail between below the NW ridge if the weather is souring.
Ah…Peak District. Wish I was up there today. But responsibility beckons. Another day. This is Will on Crack and Arete, a V3 at Newstones. He sent.
(Source: Flickr / zachstone)
Proof that I do climb and don’t just take pix. Taken by my friend Mary, who is a better photographer than I will ever be. She actually takes pictures. I just point the camera at things and push buttons. Anyhow, this is Martin’s Traverse, V0ish, but really fun. Such a great day. Newstones is such a good venue
Anonymous asked: You are the reason people have fantasies about librarians while spending inordinate amounts of time in the stacks.
If a person is stuck in the stacks fantasizing about librarians, I’m assuming it’s because they can’t find their book and need help real...
It takes an ocean not to break.
“Poetry must resemble prose, and both must accept the vocabulary of their time.”— William Butler Yeats on modern poetry in a rare 1936 BBC recording.